![]() ![]() My boxie is a 3 toed crossed with a Gulf Coast so she does not really hibernate except for a few weeks of excessive sleep in December and January. ![]() But mine has not seemed to mind going indoors and outdoors each day. The advantage to the outdoor bunker is that the turtle stays in a more natural habitat all the time. ![]() But you will still have to secure the turtle each night. Sturdy latches to open and close the bunker are needed as raccoons with little hands are very good at opeining latches, too. The wire has to be buried about 2 feet deep along the sides of the small enclosure and must cover the top as well. Use hardware cloth wire rather than chicken wire as raccoons can get through chicken wire. So bringing him indoors at night is one solution.Īnother solution is to build a turtle bunker that no predator can dig into. Occasionally she has hidden outdoors and I have not been able to find her which has caused me some sleepless nights. So my solution is to bring in my turtle each night so she isn't dinner for the predators. I know I have wrestles with this problem too as my outdoor box turtle enclosure is 90' x 10 ' and we live where all these predators are present. They are probably not such a threat during the day and when the EBTs are NOT hibernating. It is know that they will chew off a leg even when the turtles are hibernating and helpless. They can inflict life threatening injuries or outright kill a turtle. ANY kind of rat, mouse, weasel, skunk, etc., and particularly raccoons are going to attack your turtles to eat. You are a careful turtle keeper b/c you have already identified a potential threat to your turtles. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |